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Special Thanks
& Notable Mentions


I really need to give special thanks to the wonderful "Master" John Strenk. Without his help and sincere generosity, my CJ would still be sitting in my garage collecting dust. As you know, I failed my first smog test due to very petty reasons, one of which was that my charcoal canister was cracked and I had fixed it with some JB Weld. As it turns out, "this is not an acceptable fix even if it works." Well, as luck would have it, finding a new canister is very difficult in my neck of the woods and believe me, I really looked hard for one. After posting my experience on JeepsUnlimited's bulletin board, John came to my rescue and offered to send me one for FREE!! Truly, it's guys like John that make owning a Jeep the wonderful thing that it is.

Other notable mentions need to go to Kevin (ChiliPepperTJ) for offering to help me out with a canister if John couldn't and NCal and riskeacj5 for helping me out with all the great Air Intake solutions.

Thanks Guys!!

Post Installation Notes

Smog Test Results
01/31/05
Well, today was my smog test and my CJ passed the snif test with flying colors.... but the smog nazis still failed me. Why you might ask? Well, after about an hour of close scrutiny and interogating, this is what i was told (and i'm not making any of this up):

1. my check engine light was not properly labled "check engine" (just so you know, i reused my old factory "check carb" lamp on the dash).

2. there was a vacuum plug on the last port of the CTO that was supposed to be open to atmosphere. (i simply forgot to remove it)

3. the hose connecting my PCV breather to the air intake was a radiator hose and not a fuel line hose.

4. my charcoal canister had a crack on one of the ports that i fixed with a little JB weld to which they said "gluing a port is not an acceptable repair even if it works."

5.
my idle was running at about 950-1000 RPM and needed to be at 750 RPM.

Thanks to the help of John Strenk, all these have now been fixed and I will go in for another appointment on 02/15/05. Wish me luck.

Smog Test Results
02/15/05
Well, I went in for my smog re-test today at 7am. Worried about being late, i left early in the morning and i unfortunatly showed up about 10 min too early. Worse still, the nazis ended up being 10 mins late. It was in the upper 40's this morning and my engine got a whole 20 mins to cool off anyway, the chief nazi remembers my CJ, pisses and moans about badly my exhaust smelled at an idle the last time around and that it was a surprise how well my engine cleaned up under load. Anyway, he has his new student fire up the engine and then goes for a walk to who knows where. No joke, about 10 mins later he comes back talking on the phone to God know who and for what reason but in the mean time, my engine is chugging along. 15 mins now have gone by and unconvinced that my TBI is really doing it's job, he decided to plug his DLP reader up to the ECM and do some checking. Low and behold, my engine all of a sudden throws a check engine light... imagine that?! Well, right there and then, the jackoff cuts the engine and tells me that i failed my inspection. When I asked him what the error code was, he tells me that my engine is running too rich. So the student fires her back up, pulls it out of the garage and goes to park it when I noticed that the check engine light is now off. Seeing this, I ask if I could be tested again now that the light is off and he tells me that it's no good and that the computer already has me down with a check engine light and the best he could do is void my test allowing me another chance.By this time, I'm really pissed off but don't have a clue as to what to do.....

Anyway, so I head back home which is over an hour away in bumper to bumper traffic when it hits me.... try to get my Jeep smogged at a regular check station. Show the paper work from the time before and say that you missed your re-test appointment and can I just get it done here. Need I say, that's exactly what I did and after a little persuading..... I passed smog with flying colors.... again!

Howell Throttle Body Fuel Injection (TBI)
for a Jeep CJ - 258 California Emissions Engine


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49. This is a shot of the air intake system I purchased from Redline Motorsport. Basically, it's a K&N clone but it was cheap, looks good and does the job. Make sure you have all the parts you will need to install this onto your Howell TBI. Remember, you will need 2 gaskets and a air intake spacer to install it.








50. The air intake system comes with a port on the side of it for you to connect a CCV breather. You will need to pick up and use a breather grommet (I found mine at PepBoys) like the one shown in the pic to the left in order to attach an emissions elbow to the outside housing of the air intake.

51. Use a second emmissions grommet and plug it into the rear breather hole on your valve cover. Then, connect another emissions elbow to it.

52. Connect the emissions elbow on your air intake system to the one on your valve cover using a length of fuel line.

53. Attach the threaded S-bolt that came with the air intake system on to the Howell TBI.

54. Place 1 gasket on the Howell TBI, place the Specter air intake spacer on top of it, place a gasket on top of the spacer and then the new air intake system on top of it. Secure everything to the Howell TBI using the wingnut supplied with either kit.

55. The aluminum support bracket that comes with the air intake system will not work on a Jeep as it was made for a Chevy Tahoe. I took the support bracket and fashioned my own bracket and attached it to the valve cover as shown in the photo to the left.







56. Affix your new Howell TBI sticker on top of the old vacuum diagram. Double check all your connections, tidy up all your wiring with zip ties, conduit and/or electrical tape. Also, make sure there are no tools left in the engine compartment.

57. Tighten your serpentine belt (for now, I just left my old air pump on), refill your radiator as needed and Reconnect the negative lead back onto the battery.

58. Climb into the drive seat, put the key in the ignition and turn it to the on position ONLY. The check light should come on and stay on and you should hear the fuel pump activate.

59. Back outside, thoroughly check all your fuel lines again for leaks. I found that my fuel pump started to leak ever so slightly where the brass fitting connects to the foward end of it).

60. Now, climb back in your Jeep and try to start up the engine. This may take a few tries to purge all the air in the new fuel lines but keep cranking, DO NOT pump the gas pedal and do not get discouraged. Make sure to look at your new "check enging" light. Does it go off when cranking? If it does, you have selected an incorrect power source.

61. Once the engine starts, re-check all your fuel lines for leaks.

62. Adjust your throttle linkage as necessary.







63. Time to set your idle. To begin, start your engine and let it warm up to normal operating temperature. Then, turn your key to the off position and stop your engine.

64. Go to your Howell TBI ALDL diagnostic terminal and place a jumper between the A and B connections. I just made my own jumper using a piece of wire and some solderless connectors.

65. Turn your key to the "ON" position but DO NOT start your engine. You should hear the Howell TBI stepping motor clicking as it reaches the end of its travel.

66. Climb back under your hood and disconnect the 4 conductor cable plugged into the idle air control stepping motor on the passenger side of the Howell TBI (see pic)

67. Remove the jumper from the ALDL diagnostic terminal, hook up a tachometer to engine and then start it up. Using a Torx T-20 Bit, adjust the idle speed screw (which is located on the front of the Howell TBI right next to the throttle control) until the low idle speed is at 750 RPM as stated by the manual.

68. Turn your key to the off position and stop your engine. Plug the connector back into the idle air stepping motor on your Howell TBI. Your engine should now start, run and idle properly under the control of the ECM.

Post Smog Inspection Fixes
Here is a pic of my new "check engine" light that I made using some acetate and my home ink jet printer. I just removed and replaced the lens on the "check carb" lamp.
That Should be it. Please let me know if you have any questions. I'd be more than willing to help out where I can.

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