1" Bombproof Jeep Motor Mount Lift
you've just lifted your Jeep 3" or more, you will most likely
experience vibrations coming from your driveline. The cheap way to
fix this is problem is to add a transfer case drop and the best way
to fix it is to install a Slip Yoke Eliminator & CV driveshaft.
However, there is a solution somewhere in between the two and that
is to install a 1" motor mount lift.
A motor mount lift (also know as an MML) will help to straighten out your driveline the way a transfer
case drop would except you don't have to sacrifice any clearance under
your Jeep.... you know, the same clearance you just paid a bundle
lift higher. Anyway, a high quality MML like M.O.R.E.
(Mountain Off Road Enterprises) makes will set you back about $120 and you will need to install a
1" body lift if you don't already have one (approx. $70), but
it's still cheaper than an SYE/CV. I decided to get M.O.R.E.'s
Bombproof motor mounts because they are made torsion rubber bushings.
Unlike polyurethane bushings (like most other manufacturers use),
torsion rubber is very durable but still behaves like traditional
rubber (i.e. no engine vibes).
For those out there who think installing an MML is a good idea when
doing a body lift, all I can say is this. If you don't have any vibes,
you don't need an MML and it certainly isn't a better solution then
relocating your fan shroud. Trust me, I have done both. Relocate fan
shroud = 10 minutes and it's a piece of cake install. MML install
= 2 hours of moderate to hard work. You do the math.
You Will Need
1" Motor Mounts - Part#JM600L
• Sockets/Wrenches: 7/16", 13mm, 15mm, 18mm
• Torque Wrench
• Ratchet Extension (12" or longer)
• Floor Jack or OEM Bottle Jack is Ok
• Wheel Chocks
• Pry Bar
• Block of Wood
• PB Blaster
It is important that you have a 1" body lift already installed
on your Jeep before you install a 1" motor mount lift. Click
on the link below to see how to install a 1"BL: PA
1" Body Lift Installation Write-Up
1. Park your Jeep on
a level surface, put it into gear, engage the parking brake and chock
your rear tires for good measure. If you live in a rust region, hose
the underside of your Jeep good and then spray the bolts you will
be removing with some PB Blaster.
2. Open your hood, pop
off the hood lamp and turn it upside down so that it doesn't stay
on draining your battery while you do this install.
3. Remove your radiator
overflow bottle and disconnect the hose from the radiator cap. This
bottle is snapped into place by a round button tab about half way
down the bottle and you may need to push on it a bit while pulling
to get it free.
4. Remove the bolts
holding your radiator fan shroud to the radiator and just let it hang
on the fan.
5. Remove the four nuts
attaching your transmission mount to your skidplate.
6. Now, place a floor
jack underneath the front edge of your bell housing and then jack
it up just a bit applying a slight amount of pressure. You can also
jack from underneath your oilpan but make sure to use a block of wood
in between to help distribute the load.
7. Loosen, but DO
NOT REMOVE the thru-bolt, the bracket bolt on top and the
bracket stud nut on the bottom of your passenger side motor mount.
A long ratchet extension will make this job a lot easier.
8. Now, if you have
AC like me, start on the driverside motor mount by removing the bracket
bolt on top and the bracket stud nut underneath. Then, remove the
three bolts securing the bracket to your engine block (see pic to
the right). If you don't have AC, all you need to do is remove the
9. Jack up your engine
a little higher now and then pull the entire motor mount and engine
bracket out from under your Jeep.
10. With everything
out from under your Jeep, remove the thru-bolt and then swap in your
new M.O.R.E. motor mount. Re-attach the thru-bolt and tighten but do not torque
it down at this time (See pic to the right).
11. Climb back under
your Jeep, slip your driverside motor mount on top of your frame bracket
with the stud coming through (slowly jack engine up higher if required).
Make sure to loosely attach the bracket bolt on top and bracket stud
nut underneath so you can maneuver the whole thing around.
12. Now, re-attach the
engine bracket back onto the block using the three bolts you had removed
earlier and then tighten them to the appropriate torque specs.
13. The passenger side
motor mount is a heck of a lot easier to deal with. Simply remove
the thru-bolt, the top bracket bolt, the bracket stud nut underneath
and then swap in your new M.O.R.E. motor mount.
14. Re-attach the top
bracket bolt, bracket stud nut and then slip in the thru-bolt. You
will most likely need to jack up your engine higher to do this. A
pry bar to help shift things around and/or a friend to man the jack
really make this part of the job easier.
15. Lower your engine
and then go around tightening all the bolts you worked on down to
their appropriate torque specs:
• Thru-Bolts = 48 ft. lb.
• Bracket Bolts = 40 ft. lb.
• Bracket Stud Nuts = 30 ft. lb.
16. Re-attach your fan
shroud and radiator overflow bottle and make sure your fan blade turns
17. Fasten your transmission
mount back onto your skidplate using the four nuts you removed earlier.
Torque these down to 40-45 ft. lbs.
18. Pop your hood light
back on and close your hood :)
That should do the trick. This job took me about 3 hours to install
but only because I had to remove an oilpan skidplate before I could
begin. Also, taking pictures and talking notes eat up some time too.
Please let me know if you have any questions.