Here is a diagram of where all your body mounts are located.
Be Sure to un-bolt your fan shroud.
Here you can see the 3 rubber body mounts along the side.
This is a look up at the body mount under your tub between your rear tires and in front of your gas tank. This is where the 3" DIA pucks go. Notice the shock on the right.
This is a look up at the front body mount. This one makes 11 total.
Using a Hi-Lift (or standard jack) and a 2x4 piece of wood between the edge of your tub and the jack, slowly raise your tub up off the frame.
There are 2 body mounts located underneath your Jeep next to your rear shocks. Slide in the 2 larger DIA pucks inbetween the tub and crossmember as indicated in this pic
Pic of what the body mount looks like installed
Here's a close-up. Notice that the new pucks are installed on top of the factory rubber mounts.
Here is a pic of the mount on the passenger side rear corner.
This pic shows you how I used the radiator drop brackets supplied with this kit to just lower the fan shroud. The zinc (gold color) metal piece is the bracket.
Here is a side view of how the bracket is installed. The space you have to work with is extreamly tight but can be done with some patience and a 1/4" ratchet, sockets and extension. Be sure to use Nylock nuts to prevent the brackets from coming loose.
NOTE: To prevent excessive bending of the plastic when tightining the nuts, I added 1/4" nylon spacers inbetween the plastic shroud and bracket.
The Body Bracket bolts are located under the carpeting on the driverside transmission hump.  
Looking underneath the tub, you can see how the T-case shifter relocation bracket gets installed onto the body bracket.
What the bracket should look like after grinding out a notch. 
Performance Accessories 1" Body Lift
(1997-2004 Jeep Wrangler TJ)

If you are looking for just a little more space between your fenders and your tires (especially if you just got bigger tires), a cheap and simple mod you can do is add a 1" body lift. With just a 1"BL, you won't need to extend your gas filler hose, make adjustments to brake lines, A/C or anything. The only thing you MUST do after installing a BL is lower your radiator fan shroud. There's a whole host of reasons why you shouldn't do anything more than 1" but in my humble opinion, anything more than 1" just looks ugly. Anyway, I decided to get a Performance Accessories 1"BL as it came highly recommended, was very complete as you can see in the photo above and it was dirt cheap . I did not buy or install 1" Motor Mounts as I was a bit cash strapped at the time (just bought new 32x11.50 BFG M/T KM's) and just used the radiator relocation brackets supplied with the kit to lower the fan shroud.

What You Will Need
• 1" Body Lift Kit
• Hi-Lift Jack or bottle Jack with concrete blocks
• 2x4 piece of wood
• PB Blaster
• Standard Socket Set
• Socket Extension

• Torque Wrench

1. If you live in an area where rust is just a part of automotive life, be sure to hit all the body mount with a good amount of PB Blaster a day before you start this project.

2. Start your body lift by parking your Jeep on level ground and block your wheels just to make sure nothing moves. It is very important that the ground is level.

3. Pop your hood and remove your radiator overflow bottle.

4. Unbolt your radiator fan shroud and let it hang loose.

5. Loosen but DO NOT remove all the body mount bolts. There are 11 total: (1) up front, (3) on each side of the tub, (2) between the rear tires just in front of the gastank next to the shocks and (2) located at the rear corners of your Jeep.

6. At this point, I went through all my bolts, washers, pucks, etc. and sorted them out. I then placed them around my Jeep where each part would go so that I wouldn't need to leave my tub in the air while I went looking for what I needed.

7. Now, start removing all the body mount bolts on the driver side only and then jack up your tub ever so slightly using a 2x4 piece of wood between the edge of your tub and the jack. I used a Hi-Lift but if you don't have one, you can use the bottle jack that comes with your Jeep but you will most likely need to use a concrete block to help you out. It is very important to jack VERY SLOWLY (especially when using a Hi-Lift) and just enough to slide in your new pucks on top of the factory rubber mounts and then thread in the bolts by hand. Do not tighten these bolts all the way at this time.

8. Repeat step 7 on the passenger side and then be sure to install the new puck up front. The two body mounts underneath the tub (where the 3"DIA pucks go) can be a bit tricky to reach and a 12" socket extension comes in real handy here.

9. Tighten all your body mount bolts to 35 ft. lbs. of torque or until the OEM rubber pucks start to bulge a bit.

10. Re-install your fan shroud using the radiator relocation brackets supplied with this kit to effectively lower it by 1". This is very important to do if you do not want to trash your fan. See the last two Images on the right to get a better understanding of how this is done. Working space is very limited but can be done. Just take your time and be patient. You will also notice that I went ahead and got some nylock nuts and 1/4" nylon spacers to prevent bending the plastic shroud and any premature loosing of the nuts.

11. Re-install your radiator overflow bottle.

12. Now, time to install the T-case shifter relocation bracket. If you crawl under your jeep and look up underneath your skidplate, you should see the shifter linkage attached to a bracket on your tub. Start off by unscrewing the two bolts holding the bronze bushing/retainer and gasket to the body bracket.

13. Next, lift up your carpeting on the driverside of your Jeep and you should see 4 bolts on the transmission hump. Unscrew these bolts and then climb back underneath your Jeep and then separate your body bracket from the torque shaft, bushing and gasket.

14. Bolt on the relocation bracket to the body bracket. Slip the rubber gasket through the hole on relocation bracket and then screw on the bolts that hold the bushing to it.

15. Back underneath your Jeep, slip the torque shaft back through the bushing and gasket and then re-install the body bracket to the tub. A friend is always good to have here as it helps to have someone holding the bracket up against the tub as you bolt it back on from the inside.

Addendum: In some cases, a knocking may develop under the driverside floor when accelerating or going over bumps. This is caused by one of the T-case shifter link end tapping against the relocation bracket as it giggles under these conditons. To fix this problem, you will need to remove the bracket and grind a notch (red dotted line on the diagram to the left) where the impact point is occuring (shown as red "x" on diagram to the left). After a period of time, this point will be very visible on the bracket. Also, you will need to make sure that the rubber gasket that holds the torque shaft is not damaged or torn. A damaged gasket will allow the torque shaft to protrude through it and cause excessive giggling, which will also cause the knocking.

That should be it! This is a very simple to do mod and I did it completely by myself in about 45 min. Please let me know if you have any questions.

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