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Goodrich
Stainless Steel
Extended Brakelines
Once
your Jeep starts to reach the 3" and higher range, your OEM brake
lines will be at about their max length. While you might be okay driving
along the pavement, you run the risk of damaging them while flexing
out on the trail. Needless to say, it is highly recommended that you
replace at least your front OEM brake lines with a set of 1995 YJ
lines (which are about 4" longer) or stainless steel extended
ones.
What
You Will Need
• Goodrich
Stainless Steel Extended Brake Lines
• Copper Crush Washers
• Retaining Clips
• 9/16" Socket
• T-40 Torx Bit
• 3/8", 1/2", 11/16" Flare Nut Wrenches
• DOT3 Brake Fluid
• Ratchet
• Rag
• Brake Bleeding Kit (vinyl hose and jar works)
• Brake Bleeder Wrench
Installation
1.
Open your new stainless steel brake line kit and make sure
you have all the parts you need to complete this job prior to doing
anything else. It is absolutely essential that you have NEW copper
crush washers. If you don't, go to your local auto parts store and
get them now.
2. Park
your Jeep on a level surface and then turn your steering wheel until
your tires are pointing completely to the left. This will allow you
better access to the passenger side of your front brakes.
3. Assemble the brass fittings (finger tight for now)
onto your brake lines as shown in the pic to the right. Take notice
how the bend on the rigid end of the brake line is parallel to the
flat sides of the brass fitting.
4. Using a 9/16"
socket, remove the banjo bolt securing your OEM rubber brake line
to the caliper. This will be a bit messy so be sure to have some rags
handy.
5. Now, using a 3/8"
flare nut wrench, loosen but do not remove the nut on the hard line
attached to your frame as shown in the pic to the left.
6. Remove the Torx bolt
and retaining clip securing your brake line to the frame using a T-40
Torx Bit and then remove the OEM rubber brake line from it. Again,
be sure to have some rags handy.
7. Clean off the banjo
bolt of any debris or gunk and then slip it through the brass fitting
on your new brake line with a NEW copper crush washer on either end
as shown in the pic to the right.
8. Check to see if there
is an old copper crush washer sticking to your brake caliper. If there
is, pick it off and clean the surface around the hole of any gunk.
Now, fasten the banjo bolt to the caliper (as shown in the pic to
the right) securing the brake line to it. It is important to tighten
the bolt enough so that the copper washers get crushed but take care
not to over do it.
9. Using a 1/2"
flare nut wrench, fasten the nut attached to the brass fitting with
the banjo bolt going through it. Take care not to over tighten these
parts as they are only brass and can be stripped easily.
10. Now, using a 3/8"
and 11/16" flare nut wrench, attach the upper part of your new
stainless steel brake line to the hard line attached to your frame.
11. The kit I got came
with two rubber jacketed retaining clips but the bolt holes were a
bit too small to fit the OEM Torx bolts. Needless to say, I had to
widen up the holes using a Dremel with a grinding bit before proceeding.
12. Attach your retaining
clip to the hard line attached to your frame rail using the OEM torx
bolt as shown in the pic to the left.
13. Repeat entire process
on the driver side of your Jeep.
14. Bleed your brakes:
Click here to see my brake bleeding
write-up
15. With your engine
on, pump your brakes and then hold them down for about a minute. Shut
your engine off and check for any leaks.
That should be it. Please let me know if you have any questions.
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