Here's a pic of what you get with this kit.
Assemble this fitting on the end of your brake line with the bend in it.
Remove the banjo bolt attached to your brake caliper using a 9/16" socket.
Do yourself a favor and buy a set of flare nut wrenches like the one shown above.
Loosen but do not remove the hard line attached to your brake hose. Remove the Torx bolt and retaining clip and then separate the hose from the hard line.
Assemble your banjo bolt and new copper crush washers as shown above.
Bolt up your new SS brake line to your brake caliper.
Use the new retaining clip provided with this kit to secure your hard line to your frame.
Goodrich Stainless Steel
Extended Brakelines

Once your Jeep starts to reach the 3" and higher range, your OEM brake lines will be at about their max length. While you might be okay driving along the pavement, you run the risk of damaging them while flexing out on the trail. Needless to say, it is highly recommended that you replace at least your front OEM brake lines with a set of 1995 YJ lines (which are about 4" longer) or stainless steel extended ones.

What You Will Need
• Goodrich Stainless Steel Extended Brake Lines
• Copper Crush Washers
• Retaining Clips
• 9/16" Socket
• T-40 Torx Bit
• 3/8", 1/2", 11/16" Flare Nut Wrenches
• DOT3 Brake Fluid
• Ratchet
• Rag
• Brake Bleeding Kit (vinyl hose and jar works)
• Brake Bleeder Wrench

1. Open your new stainless steel brake line kit and make sure you have all the parts you need to complete this job prior to doing anything else. It is absolutely essential that you have NEW copper crush washers. If you don't, go to your local auto parts store and get them now.

2. Park your Jeep on a level surface and then turn your steering wheel until your tires are pointing completely to the left. This will allow you better access to the passenger side of your front brakes.

Assemble the brass fittings (finger tight for now) onto your brake lines as shown in the pic to the right. Take notice how the bend on the rigid end of the brake line is parallel to the flat sides of the brass fitting.

4. Using a 9/16" socket, remove the banjo bolt securing your OEM rubber brake line to the caliper. This will be a bit messy so be sure to have some rags handy.

5. Now, using a 3/8" flare nut wrench, loosen but do not remove the nut on the hard line attached to your frame as shown in the pic to the left.

6. Remove the Torx bolt and retaining clip securing your brake line to the frame using a T-40 Torx Bit and then remove the OEM rubber brake line from it. Again, be sure to have some rags handy.

7. Clean off the banjo bolt of any debris or gunk and then slip it through the brass fitting on your new brake line with a NEW copper crush washer on either end as shown in the pic to the right.

8. Check to see if there is an old copper crush washer sticking to your brake caliper. If there is, pick it off and clean the surface around the hole of any gunk. Now, fasten the banjo bolt to the caliper (as shown in the pic to the right) securing the brake line to it. It is important to tighten the bolt enough so that the copper washers get crushed but take care not to over do it.

9. Using a 1/2" flare nut wrench, fasten the nut attached to the brass fitting with the banjo bolt going through it. Take care not to over tighten these parts as they are only brass and can be stripped easily.

10. Now, using a 3/8" and 11/16" flare nut wrench, attach the upper part of your new stainless steel brake line to the hard line attached to your frame.

11. The kit I got came with two rubber jacketed retaining clips but the bolt holes were a bit too small to fit the OEM Torx bolts. Needless to say, I had to widen up the holes using a Dremel with a grinding bit before proceeding.

12. Attach your retaining clip to the hard line attached to your frame rail using the OEM torx bolt as shown in the pic to the left.

13. Repeat entire process on the driver side of your Jeep.

14. Bleed your brakes:
Click here to see my brake bleeding write-up

15. With your engine on, pump your brakes and then hold them down for about a minute. Shut your engine off and check for any leaks.

That should be it. Please let me know if you have any questions.

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